Cumberland Island

Daniel and Madison have lived in St. Mary’s since 2018.  We make weekend trips here for visits but we have never had an entire day to spare to take a trip to Cumberland Island.  And it takes a DAY.  Cumberland Island is a National Seashore.  It is Georgia’s southern most and largest barrier island.  It is only accessible by boat.  While there are some private residences it is over 9,800 acres of “congressionally designated wilderness”.  

We made the decision Thursday and purchased the tickets to the Cumberland Island Ferry online for the next day. It’s March.  I am not sure you can always book the day before.  This is not a cheap excursion.  The Ferry is a 45 minute ride and, by the way, you need a round trip ticket.  There are options (two) for the morning departure from St. Mary’s and options for the afternoon departure (two) from the Island. 

The Cumberland Queen II

#CumberlandIslandFerry

Important note:  If you are taking your bike, you need to register (and pay) for that when you book the tickets.  I made the mistake of booking the tickets and then when I was reading the what you need to know I realized I needed to book the bikes as well.  Gary loaded them and I had him stay with the car and the bikes until I made sure I could get them on.  A lovely young lady was very understanding and booked my bikes at the office. 

We also needed to purchase tickets to the National Seashore.  Those tickets aren’t as pricey but they aren’t cheap.  Thankfully, I am married to an Old Guy!  He was able to purchase a YEAR Long pass to ALL National Parks for $20.00 AND he can take three additional adults.  SCORE!

Once all of the tickets are in order, people with bicycles and overnight campers get dismissed to load the bikes and camping gear onto the Ferry.  We had a short briefing and then loaded up.  Gary and I sat on top and it was a lovely ride to the island.  I met a young lady with Atlanta and Brooklyn roots who is a videographer and we chatted most of the ride.

As we neared land we did see some dolphins frolicking. 

Once you offload with your bike, you are free for the day.  Our first destination was the Ice House.  There is a little Ice House Museum.  The history of this little island and it’s inhabitants over the centuries is very layered.  I would definitely recommend if you go to the island taking in the history pieces as well.  

Next we went to the Dungeness Ruins.  This must have been a spectacular 59 room mansion in it’s time.  We came home and spent the evening googling the history of the Carnegie’s and the ownership of the places on the island.  It is very interesting. 

Dungeness Ruins, Cumberland Island National Seashore

While walking around the ruins we came across the wild horses we had heard about.  Also there was an osprey building a nest on top of the chimney of the ruins.   

Cumberland Island Wild Horses

It was time to get back on the bikes and cycle for real.  I was just blown away by the quiet.  While cycling down this sandy street (there are no paved roads) there are very rarely vehicles and all you hear are the birds.  Imagine no air conditioners running, no people on their cell phones conversing or watching the latest reels, no horn honking.  Nothing.  Silence.  The vegetation has been left to itself.  The liveoaks are free to reach for the sky or bend and bow as they often do.  The palm fronds are prolific and give the forrest a lush carpet feel.  In some spots there are mammoth pine trees or magnolia trees.  I cannot describe the beauty of this island.

As I rode my bicycle in awe taking in the splendor of landscape that is natural and untainted thicket I wondered what heaven will be like.  Earth is just a foretaste of the beauty and splendor that awaits believers in paradise.  Oh, Lord, I cannot wait to see what you have done with the place!!!  😊

Cumberland Island National Seashore

We rode to the Little Greyfield Beach.  Bikes are only allowed in certain places so we propped them up against a sturdy tree, retrieved the lunch bag and walked the rest of the distance to the beach.  There were no other humans on this beach.  No, granted, it was foggy but I walked for a little bit in both directions and did not see any humans.  Even the birds were different.  It was like sea gulls didn’t know they are supposed to be obnoxious and shore birds didn’t know they aren’t supposed to be near humans. 

I found a few treasures because only a few others had been there before us.  I only took one sand dollar home, I didn’t want to be greedy.

Cumberland Island National Seashore

We had lunch on the beach and Gary rested his body.  When you are not used to riding a bike, riding a bike can be not enjoyable.

We loaded up our trash – there are zero trash cans on the island.  What you bring in, you take out.  Also, speaking of taking, you are allowed to collect sea shells that are empty and sharks teeth.  All other items must be left behind – feathers, drift wood, sea glass, she listed them all.

Once back on the bikes we continued our journey north.  I knew we were not making it to the top of the island, that was never my goal.  We made it to the Stafford House and Gary said we could go further but quickly regretted his choice.  The further north you go and the less the roads are traversed, the more the condition deteriorates.  Riding bikes in deep sand is not easy nor fun.  Also the day was progressing rather rapidly and he began asking about getting back in time to catch the ferry.  I think he was worried about being stranded on an island with me 😊

But the poor man had hit his limit.  It was on this final leg that a new rule became part of our family list of rules….. Gary will not be galivanting with me via bicycle unless the road is paved. 

We did return to the vicinity of the Sea Camp Dock in enough time we went out to that beach for another break.  I’m not without mercy!!!

Sea Camp Beach

Cumberland Island National Seashore

While I was sad to depart this lovely oasis, Gary was thankful to return to civilization.   

The ferry ride was lovely with some entertaining dolphins as we returned to St. Mary’s.  I am more than thankful that I am able to cross this off my bucket list.  Oh, and a wildlife headcount:  9 wild horses in three different locations, an armadillo, what I think were fiddler crabs, an osprey and other birds. 

I would not recommend this long day trip for kiddos.  But for the energetic explorers, please please indulge.

I love you dearly. Please let me know how I can be praying for you.

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